1. Large and Small Circle Marking
How big or small do you need to go? M.POWER’s heads attach to any standard steel or aluminum rule; hence, the size of the radius you can mark is only limited by the length of your rule. Simply lock one scribe unit in place, measure out the required radius between the scribe point and pencil point and lock the second scribe unit.
2. Marking Gauge
We all like marking gauges until they slip in soft grain or spalting or stick in a knot and make a wild mark, at which point we realize that it's not the gauge we like, it's only our expectation of the gauge.(Sounds like dating, doesn't it?) The problem with standard marking gauges is that you apply force perpendicular to the pivot point created by the gauges scribe, which is supported by nothing but the resistance of the wood to the scribe point, so if the point buries and sticks, your hand has a tendency to keep moving. Simply put, they wobble, are difficult to master, and don't make woodworking easy or fun because the leverage is all wrong and the scribe point is unsupported, so a material flaw or an untimely sneeze can quickly make a mess of your work piece. Adding a Tri-Scribe unit to a standard try-square or combination square transforms it into a very accurate and stable marking gauge because the forces in the marking unit are now parallel instead of perpendicular. Since the trammel heads will hold your choice of a scribe, pencil or blade, it is a both a marking and cutting tool, versatile, accurate, and simple to use.
3. Mortise Gauge
Need two parallel lines? Precision in joinery is key so why not use a tool you know will give you the most precise results? Attach both Scribe heads to your try-square or combination square as a mortise gauge. Again the strengths of this over a traditional gauge hold true, offering increased stability, accuracy and ease.
4. Panel Gauge
Do you use much sheet stock? These days it's difficult to avoid, because the materials are of such good quality and being able to design a table or panel without having to leave slop in your design to allow for wood movement is just too good a prospect to pass up most of the time. Most traditional marking gauges have a limited maximum range (6"-7" / 150mm-180mm) which means you must also have a panel gauge should you need to do any deep-range marking. Aside from the tendency of panel gauges to have all the weaknesses of a marking gauge amplified in their larger size, this is an additional cost and tool to store in the workshop or carry on site. By attaching the Tri-Scribes to a longer blade try-square or combination square you can mark panels with the same accuracy and ease that you mark mortises, tenons, rabbets, etc., and you don't have to buy, store or carry an extra tool to do so.
5. Cutting Gauge
Do you sometimes need, or simply prefer, a blade instead of a pencil line? We've got you covered there, too. The Blade post is included in the kit and creates a cutting gauge that can cut parallel lines and circles. Add another for Japanese-style mortise marking with a knife. Ideal for trimming veneers and cards precisely, the Tri-Blade also allows very fine and accurate marking lines to be cut. This ability can be very useful when marking across the grain where a precise cut is more appropriate than a torn scribing line.
6. Blade Kit - Tri Blade
For precision marking where a pencil line just isn't fine enough, The FLTS includes a blade post and a bar of replaceable blades allowing you to strike a hyper fine line. Used when set up as a trammel compass and accurate circles can be cut out in veneer, light card and paper.
To change the blade simply undo the pinch screws with the allen key provided, snap off a fresh blade section, slot in and re-tighten.